Onward with the 6PAC

I decided that I should leave the pants alone for a day or two. Try to get back my good humor and maybe a new take on pants fitting.


My coat, in the purple, is still waiting for the lining.  I’ve embroidered it, but I’m looking over it too.  I think that I might should add a few more fill-ins so that the embroidery is evenly distributed.  My coat is sitting on the dressform so that I can see and contemplate….   I won’t get the lining until next week.


After all the challenge and frustration of the last few projects, I decide that the next garment should be easy.  The light rose knit would be perfect.  A cooperative fabric and now for a cooperative pattern. I looked over the 2 WOF’s or whatever Burda is calling their magazine now.  Right now I need a top pattern.  I have shortened dress patterns in the past so either a top or a dress pattern could work.    There were several really interesting tops, blouses and dresses.  But they weren’t for knits.  This will be my first Burda so I want to choose a pattern that is designed for knits.   Shucks the easier knit patterns WOF is showing, I already have fitted patterns. I don’t want to go to the effort of tracing and fitting a WOF pattern when I already have a good one nearly the same.  There is at least one interesting knit pattern (2010_01_113) but the style lines aren’t good for me.  I mean I’ve worn something similar in the past and people ask me “When are you due?”  (Due?  I’ve been cut, tied and fried. I’m also retired.  I’m due grandkids that can be returned when I can’t handle them.) Ummmm I don’t think Burda’s going to help me with this knit fabric.


Then I think I’m really needing success.  Using my TNT T-shirt would do just fine.  Quick and easy, I’ve made this pattern 100 times if I’ve made it once.  2 hours tops for sewing counting pressing the fabric.  Yeah, lets do quick, easy, reliable.


I press the fabric, smoothing out the wrinkles; find and press my trusty pattern and start laying out.  Oh, I should make this a tunic with side slits.  Just for something different. Besides that won’t add hardly any sewing time.  And then I remember the really fascinating Burda Blouse 2010_01_107 with asymetrical opening and raglan sleeves.  I don’t do raglan sleeves.  Well there is one pattern that I can use.  But I steer away from raglan sleeves.  I’m definitely pear shaped and a raglan sleeve makes my shoulders narrower and my stomach bigger.  Besides the Burda pattern was for a woven fabric.  I’m using a knit.  I’m using my TNT, tunic length with side slits, easy cut, easy sew, 2 hours max, TSHIRT.  So why don’t I add a front placket and place it to one side, asymetrical fashion.  Great idea.  Cut one 14×3″ strip and interface for use as placket. Won’t add hardly any sewing time if I use my magic placket instruction.


 You know, (I think), a more feminine sleeve would be easy to do and would enhance the garment and look more current, besides it won’t add hardly any sewing time to add a cuff.  So I widen the sleeve just at the wrist, cut it about and inch shorter and then cut cuffs.


It occurs to me that a regular knit band at the neck would be OK, but since I’m doing all the previous, I should cut and stitch a binding at the neck edge.  Just to do something more current looking and different from what I always do and besides … (can you fill in the blank). 


Now I’m looking at the front with the placket slit marked and think “That’s a perfect place for an embroidery”.  An hour later I’ve picked 2.  3 hours later I’ve tested and picked colors for the embroidery also decided upon one of the embroideries.  ——-Uh what happened to the quick and simple T shirt?  What happened to instant success? What happened to 2 hours sewing time?   I’ve got 6 hours into this T-shirt and not a single stitch into the fabric.  Not even the embroidery.  That was all on test fabric.  Dinner time, have to return to this tomorrow.


But one very good thing is that I’ve come up with some ideas for my pants.  I remember working with a very good friend who said she always got her best ideas when she gave up and went to the bathroom.  It’s like your brain is constipated as long as your body is constipated.  But I think what really happens, is that by giving the problem a light touch, the subconsious takes over, connects with the great Mind of the universe and my answers come.  So while working on the quick 2-hour max Tshirt, I’ve realized that the pants look like they’ve been shirred on the sides.  While watching TV last night, I clipped a thread about every inch.  Today I’m going to press the pants, try them on another time and take pics.  If that doesn’t work I’ll rip out the entire outseam and hand baste. 


I also decided to take a step back.  Instead of trying to work through all the fitting issues at once.  I want to work on one at a time. I decide the waist must fit before I go on.  Even with previous pants fitting success, they pants never look right until the waist sits and stays in the correct place.  The waist is nearly fitted now. The waistband has been very close.  I retraced my original JSM pattern adding only at the back side and subtracting from the front side. I do want the sides to be perpendicular.  Just before cutting the fabric, I also added the 1″ extensions at the inseam crotch.  After all that’s what caused this whole pants fitting journey.  The butt vortex must be eliminated if I’m to have any hope of wearing the pants.  I know that my previous extensions took care of the smilies and the vortex.  At this time, I did not touch the length of the crotch either front or back or the length of the pants.  I did walk the side seams and discovered my back pattern was 1/2″ longer than the front (could that have caused the diagonal wrinkles).  So I am working on 3 tweaks, 2) the waistband 2) the side seams and 3) front extensions.


I selected a grey corduroy for this trial.  I’m thinking this will be like the first time I made the concerted effort to fit pants i.e. by the time I get the perfect or near-perfect pattern I won’t want to wear the first trial garments.  I’m ok with that. OK to the point that I look at this grey wide-wale corduroy and say “this will work for the few weeks I’m apt to wear this first pant”.  I wasn’t sure what to do with this particular fabric.  I was thinking of a jacket in my future, but I’m happy to use it for a wearable pants muslin.  Because I want to make pants out of corduroy and other heavy fabrics for winter time use. Making the muslin from the same type of material I want in my final garment is a good choice.  I have noticed that wide-wale corduroy adds pounds to my figure. That’s why this particular fabric has been aging in my stash.  I have several similar pieces with the same problem.  I’m not quite sure what to do with them because they are pant colors but not what I want to use for pants.  A muslin, worn only this winter, sounds like a good choice to me.  I had the muslin nearly done just before dinner last night.


So today, I’m returning to my sewing room to a) start the embroidery on my quick easy 2-hour max T-shirt (BTW the embroidery will take 1 hour and 15 minutes); b) test the grey crepe wool to see if cutting the stitching helped smooth out the diagonal wrinkles; and c) finish the wearable (I hope) muslin pants. 


Wish me luck