New Look 6754

I bought this pattern at least 1 year ago if not 2 and at some time I trimmed the tissue but I don’t remember sewing a garment and don’t have one in my closet. I also purchased, at about the same time,  it’s sister pattern: NL6808

 

Both looked perfect for warm weather wear and each could be made several times (unlike Butterick 5561).  It wasn’t until last week’s post that I realized they were the same pattern with minor style changes. Yep, you put one big pattern piece on top of it’s corresponding piece in the other pattern and they match.

 

They weren’t really what I wanted to make. Nope. Like many others at SG I was enchanted by Collette’s Sorbetto:

 

 

 

 

 

But if you analyze the Sorbetto it is

  • sleeveless
  • scoop neck
  • shell
  • no darts
  • center front pleat

NL6754 analyzed is (or has):

  • sleeveless
  • scoop neck
  • shell
  • horizontal bust dart

I don’t know about you,  I’m barely a “B” cup. I find that a front dart does wonders for the fit of my garments.  So if the two were exactly alike, I’d pick the NL.  Since they weren’t, I downloaded the free Sorbetto pattern…… and then had a think.

 

If you’ve read my blog for anytime at all, you know that I have a yen to do a little pattern drafting. So even though I had the real pattern and only needed to print it out, I kept thinking: “how hard can it be to add a front pleat to NL6754?” Especially if it was already fitted?  (I remembered cutting the tissue).

 

It’s turning out more complicated than I thought.

 

For starters NL 6754 has not been fit.  Yes I trimmed the tissue but must have been side-tracked because not even the back waist length (BWL) had been made.  I’ve made the BWL to nearly every pattern since I was 13.  If there is ever a hint of a waistline, if any vertical seam is not perfectly straight, I need to raise the shaping up to my own waist.  So when I see a pattern that doesn’t have a BWL, I know it hasn’t been fit and probably never even cut from fabric.  But this is a quick sew.  I’ve made many shells over the years.  They are my summer style.  I’ve never really been comfortable in negative-ease Tank tops or belly exposing what-evers.  No the simple, sleeveless shell is my preferred garment.  I know that it is quick and easy to sew because I’ve made dozens. Well it is quick and easy IF it has been fit. Oh and the point of all this whining? I rummaged though the Under2’s and found a lovely small fabric of undetermined fiber content.  It could be polyester. It could be nylon.  All I really care about is that I wouldn’t mind if I ruined it and there wouldn’t be anything left over to put back on the shelf. Perfect for this project.

 

I did the quick tissue fit on Mimie, didn’t take photos, but I was satisfied.  Cut and sewed the fabric in one evening. WOWzer got to love a pattern for that.  I used purchased bias to finish the armscyes and neckline. I made one mistake.  I did not stabilize the front neckline. Nope not  a single stitch of thread or wisp of interfacing. No matter how firm the fabric is, the bias will stretch.  I didn’t fix the armscyes, but I did take 5 minutes and stitch 5 pin tucks to the front neckline.  This added just a touch of embellishment while pulling that neckline back against my own chest.

 

Usually garments look better on me than on Mimie.  However, that’s not the case for this pattern.  Oddly enough it looks good on Mimie, but just OK on me.  I’ve already worn the garment but don’t know what happened to the photos.  When I sat down to write my post, my only photos are those of Mimie.  While wearing I tried to decided if the not-quite-perfect fit was due to the stretch which occurred when I skipped the stay stitching….. or something else.   Thing is, I’ve made Louise Cuttings Pure and Simple Shell and also her My Hearts A Flutter Shell; and both shells fit wonderfully. Just astonishingly wonderful.  Also the Ebb blouse (from the Ebb and Flow pattern) is stunning on me.  The look, fit and feel of these 3 garments is too fabulous for words.  Even DH notices the difference.

 

I’ve decided on using these excellent fitting patterns as my slopers

 

  • PNS  for extended sleeve styles
  • HAF  for sleeveless styles
  • Ebb  fo sleeved styles
  • JSM trouser block

and then creating the fashionable styles I want to wear.  You’re probably thinking “Bev, you’ve already been doing that”. Not exactly.  I’ve been comparing new patterns to previously fit and similar patterns. What I mean to do now is start standardizing on the fit I want by always starting with my slopers above. Of course, this could change.

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