New Look 6940: 3rd Time Lucky

The third fabric was chosen primarily because I didn’t want to change threads at the serger and sewing machine, yet again today.  Yes even though I’ve made 3 separate posts all this happened in about 6 hours. NL6940 View C really would be a quick and easy project if I were more respectful of my fabrics’ inherent qualities.

I didn’t want to change threads, so I looked only in my pink fabrics for a suitable fabrics.  Most of my pink fabrics were woven.  This pattern clearly calls for knits-only.  I had 2 remaining pink knit fabrics.  The first was a wonderful WFO fabric.  It is a 4×2 fine-rib knit with excellent stretch and recovery.  Walmart sold a lot of crap on those $1 bolts, but there were fabrics of excellent quality, like this one.  But this fabric is too warm for summer wear.  I know this from experience.  It makes a much better cool weather garment. Much cooler than the 100+ temps we’re regularly posting this summer.  The 2nd fabric is a fine seed stitch knit.  It’s rough on the seed stitch side but the reverse is smooth. It too is a little heavier than what I would like to use. But I have become lazy about re-threading and decide to use it anyway.

I zip through cutting. Sew the center back, shoulders and top front to the back.  I decide to solve the issue of bindings right now.  Of course this fabric not only folds nicely but happily stretches perfectly into place.  I slip the loop into place (now cut at the longest length), baste the little bit of sides together and slip the garment on for it’s for trial.  Once again the armscyes are perfect.  The neckline would be perfect too except for the loop.  I swear the loop hates me.  It again pulls the neckline sharply downward.  I check the instructions. This is the way the loop is supposed to be placed.  I don’t like it.  I undo the loop, rip a little bit of the binding at the neckline and rearrange the loop so that it will be stitched into both the neckline and the empire line.  I try that on again.  The loop looks really ugly.  I try shortening (without cutting anything) and lengthening.  The loop is bad. Just OO-G-L-Y.  I finally make the loop the same length as the center of the top section.  I basted the bottom section of the top to the top section but leaving it open around the loop and try it on again.  Not only does the loop look ugly, but the front which should curve upward attractively around the bosom, pokes out like a ducks bill! WTH.

I know it’s a fabric issue.  I knew this fabric was a little heavier than needed for a summer top. Probably why I still have it in the stash is because it is a beautiful color but difficult to find the right weather for wearing.

What did I do?  I trimmed off the duckbill and finished the !@#!!@ thing.
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I think the back of this garment is a bit too tight.  It was fine with the slinky and would be fine with a different 4-way stretch fabric.  But this slightly firmer knit shows that as I age, I’m not only gaining weight, I’m bending forward rounding my shoulders and widening my back.  Since I can see this, I will make more of an effort to sit and stand straighter.  I’m afraid that time and nature are against me and I will eventually need to make the round back adjustment. For now I think the best course of action may be to rotate the excess ease at the top to the bottom.  So when I make the NSA in the back, I’ll split the tissue all the  through the hem.  When I overlap at the neckline, the hem will automatically spread adding the needed ease across the shoulders and high hip.
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The armscye may have finished a bit high when using bands.  It’s something to note for future versions.  I also think that the hem line is uneven…tilted up at the back and down in the front.   I’m pretty sure I’m looking at the whole round back, forward shoulder issue from the side.  I won’t make any changes this time but do wonder why I didn’t see that on the McCalls pattern that I used when checking the tissue. Then again, maybe this is from raising my arm during the photo so I can see the armscye.
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See that smile. I’m actually happy how this fits.  The front issues are from my standing position (and maybe the round-back forward shoulder thingy).  I even like the front loop now simply a decorative band. It’s doesn’t scream preggers.  I’m not even sure I want to make it any shorter although that is a bit long when compared to today’s trends.

I’m calling this a TNT. I know that I need to make one more change to the back.  But I also know that I can pull this out and make it in under 2 hours if I have the right fabric.

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