Simplicity E2028

I’m still contemplating an elegant fitting solution for my tops.  Temporarily I’m moving onto other styles. I still need sleeveless tops for summer wear. Also I feel a bit guilty. I have 20 sleeveless patterns that I’ve never even taken out of the envelope.  Some of these are old enough that I probably won’t ever make them.  They’ve become passe and I realize that if I don’t make some of the others this year, they’ll be passe too.

I purchased Simplicity E2028 last year.

I was intrigued by the shoulder.  I’m not sure if that is a raglan or saddle shoulder.  I am careful with both shoulder types.  Some placements of these shoulder lines can make my narrow shoulders look even narrower and, by contrast, my hips even wider.  But this design looked like a possible success.  If so, it would also be really useful for those short but wide fabrics I sometimes end up with, like the ITY border print I also purchased  last year.  I was captivated by the print and ordered 1 panel.  I should have read t descriptions more carefully.  One panel, while 62″ wide, was only 30″ long– not even a full yard. That meant from the time it arrived this fabric was always destined to be a sleeveless garment.

Once again I used M5359 to check the ease of  E2028.  I’m now thinking M5359 really doesn’t fit and I need to re-read my posts and find the shell that did fit.  Because of M5359, I chose to trace a 12 across the shoulders and a 16 on the sides. The shoulders fit fine. Surprisingly, I didn’t need my back waist length adjustment. I always need that. But for this garment, which is designed for knits, the BWL of the size 12 was spot on for me. I was suspicious of M5359 and from the get-go planned to use the wide border for the shoulder/yoke; the central design for the body of my garment; and reserved the narrow side borders in case I needed to add more width.

The first fit of E2028  was,, just odd.

There are wings on the shoulder, obvious tightness around my center and although you can’t see it, the armscye was at least 1″ too deep. I re-stitched the shoulder seams at 3/4″. That made the upper torso from shoulder to bust and armscye fit .  There was still entirely too much fabric around the bust with an equal too little around the hip.  I wasn’t sure if the fabric was ridding up and pooling in the mid-back because I hadn’t done a BWL or if it was due to lack of ease across the hips.  To make this work, cause I still liked the print, I trimmed a 1″ wedge from the side starting at the armscye and narrowing to zero just above the waist. Then I carefully trimmed the side border, which I had reserved, to 1.5″ strips and added them to the side. The strip at the side added the needed hip ease and is an attractive fix

I didn’t really have enough left to make bindings besides, I didn’t want any more busy conflict prints, so from the stash I pulled out a plain brown synthetic jersey and cut strips for bindings.  I prefer cleanly finished edges. I did a french binding on the armscyes.  A french binding makes a nice finishing, completely enclosing the raw edges.  It can be turned to the inside or to the right side, as I did here for contrast.

But it felt a little heavy.  So for the neckline, which I took the liberty of reshaping for a more summery look,  I cut a strip and without folding stitched it to the back neckline, wraped up, over and to the front.  I left the front edge of the strip free to curl.  I prefer for my neckline and sleeveless armscyes to be finished the same.  It has a more coherent final appearance IMO. But for this garment I felt that the weight of the bindings needed to be better managed. When finished, I was surprised to see that the free edge rolls and completely disappears!

The final fitted garment:
is both comfortable and attractive. Ignore the pants. They’ve been worn all day and without a belt. I need a belt to keep my pants at my waistline and remove all those drag lines in the picture. I hadn’t really planned to wear these pants with this top. The pants are made from a light weight cotton/lycra woven plaid. The plaid is browns with a coral strip. But looking at this combination in the pics I thought ” Huh! Not bad!
I’m beginning to see a trend here, a personal fitting trend.  I’m thinking of both this pattern, E2028 and the previous 5937 pattern, one a Simplicity the other a McCalls.

The size 12’s fit nicely across the shoulders and upper torso to the bust.  I think the inherent  stretch and weight of the  ITY knit caused the garment to lengthen over all.  I did make a 1.5″ hem on the E2028 whereas the pattern is drafted for a shirt tail hem and I prefer a 1.25″ hem.  I didn’t add length to the pattern. In fact I thought I was going to need some of that border to add length. Just saying, I think had this been my usual jersey knit, the E2028 size 12 would have been perfect across the shoulders armscye and upper bust just like McCalls 5937 was.

Despite the fabric stretch, my bust failed to fill out the size 16 sides.  I trimmed a full 1″ wedge from E2028.  I think I could trace a size 14 from armscye to waist.

The size 16 was too tight across the hips. The M5937 size 12 with 1″ FBA was also too tight across the hips.  Apparently I have added padding in that area it’s just over-shadowed by the padding in front.  Adding a wedge to the bottom doesn’t seem effective. A wedge causes the hem to flare producing the Judi Jetson look as evidenced in the 5937 blouse.   In effect the FBA adds  a wedge and cutting the straight 16 sides was adding an  even amount  to the side-seam from top to bottom.  Neither method worked perfectly for me.

I’m thinking I could either cut a 12 shoulder, 14 bust-to-waist 18 hip-to hem  for the next garment OR I can revisit the FBA making the cuts and hinges in slightly different places with a little constraining at the hem.