I completed two more fitting sessions before finishing the garment. The blue stripe resembles too closely another blouse in my closet so I indulged in a little embroidery to the front.
I deepened the horizontal bust dart by 1/8″ which also made the side seams the same length. I increased the front fish-eye darts twice. The first time I increased the dart to 3/8 but still allowing it to taper to 1/4″ at the hem. The second time I increased the dart to 1/2″ tapering to 1/4″ at the hem. To be honest, I think the front view looked nicer before the fish-eye darts were adjusted.
I’m equally unsatisfied by the back view
I increased the back fish eye darts to 1/2″ tapering to 1/4″ at the hem. BTW this would be the defaults as established by the pattern. I really wanted to control the flaring at the hem; flaring which I did not see indicated by the line drawing. Now I have bulk in the middle of my back which was not present at the first try on. There is a bit of velcro-butt going on which I could not see or feel at picture-taking time. I hemmed the garment thinking that once the hem was in place the garment would again fall nicely in the back.
I also took two side pictures one with my arm lifted the other with my arm by my side as at the first try on, lifting my arm had removed many of the drag lines which led me to believe that the unfinished armscye might have been too high.
I don’t think the position of the arm made any difference other than changing the position of the back. The arm views were taken after the back view and I think makes the back look somewhat better. The hem however clearly flares. Something unexpected and not what I desire.
I added the embroidery and needed to soak/wash in order to remove all the water-soluble stabilizer. At that time, I completely finished the blouse so it wouldn’t ravel in the wash/dry cycle. In the pics above, I’ve pressed and tried the garment on. I will be changing the fish-eye darts back to 1/4″ inside tucks. I won’t be taking and posting another set of pictures for this blouse.
It’s obvious to me that my front fit procedure is pretty good. Also simple and I do like simple. For the front I will be tracing the size 12 shoulder and size 14 from underarm to hem and adding the FBA. I know that the drag lines across the front rib case still need to be addressed. It could be that I need to increase my FBA just a little more. But that drag line goes all the way across the side and down to the center back.
The back has me totally puzzled. I made a slash and spread similar to the FBA which added enough ease for the hip but too much across the waist. While the upper back looks good, there clearly are drag lines pointing from center of the shoulders to the underarm which are then echoed from the from upper back to waist. Looking at the pictures, I’m tempted to say I need more waist room. I happen to know that the waist feels loose on the front and anybody can see the bubble of excess fabric at the back waist. I can’t really believe insufficient ease at the waist is my problem. AND while the wrinkles higher up point to the underarm, I know that any more width across there causes underarms and front amscye gaping which is unattractive. So the question is what to do next. I think on my next blouse I will cut the shoulder at a size 12, but immediately cross to the size 14 cutting line of the back underarm. I’ll add the same dart to the back but I think increasing it by 1/4″ to be sure I have enough ease across the back hip.
But for now I need to take a break from fitting sleeveless blouses. Summer high temperatures have mostly passed. We will still have warm days even close to 100. But I clearly see a pattern of slowly dropping temps. I won’t be able to wear my trousers from last year or even this spring. I’ve encountered health issues of which the side effect is a slow but constant weight gain. The pants which fit this spring can hardly be zipped up. I don’t know about you, but I don’t think just because a garment goes around me that it fits. I do demand comfort which tight-fitting woven garments just don’t provide me. Moral of the story is, I need to get started on my Autumn 6PAC. I need to have clothes I can wear when the temps drop another 40 degrees.