Vest for the Muley Brown Collection

I’m not sure about the fiber content.  Over a year ago,  I “secured” this piece during a table dive at Hancocks in Sioux Falls.  Actually I put it down and picked it up several times.  I didn’t think the browns would work for me.  They were too cool, color wise. But it was an interesting all over design.  I couldn’t figure out if the glyphs were  sun signs, G’s, C’s or 6’s. In the end I made my purchase thinking it would work well in a purse.  I realized this would be best as the vest in my Muley Brown Collection.  A vest could tie together not only the current collection of muley browns, but  would work well with other browns as well. Thereby tying together or coordinating the muley browns with some other brown shades.

I chose to use my TNT NL6538 vest pattern.

This pattern is so ancient that if you search for it, you find an entirely new pattern.  I’ve been using the same size for years.  Yes, it’s oversized but that happens to work well when it comes to vests.  While other garments come and go, my vests last for decades.  That’s because they are so easy fitting and that they are seldom laundered. (I have proof in my own closet that laundering is detrimental to clothing.)  I’ve modified this simple shape multiple times.  This time I used the one piece with side seam dart. IOW, the front and back were overlapped at the side seam, the center back being cut on the fold.  But I didn’t eliminate the side seam entirely. What I do is overlap only to the widest point of the hips and leave the side seams above unattached.   I trim that area out during cutting and stitch it together, rather like a dart.

This vest is heavily interfaced and fully lined.  My lining is a lingerie fabric. It a heavy tricot knit. Ease to sew, adds a little slipperiness for putting on and taking off but had absolutely no structure.  I had visions of my cellphone breast pocket hanging below the hem after a few wearings.  So, I added my inner pockets by interfacing both the pocket itself and the area behind the pocket with fusible weft. I’ve tried several methods of adding lining.  I always return to the easy method I used here.  Right sides together, stitch around the outside edges. Press edges. Turn, press again.  Finish the armholes by stitching bias tape to the right side, press, turn to the inside and stitch:

I’m not sure why I hand slip-stitched the bias tape to the inside.  I had top stitched the outside edges after the final pressing.  It would have looked fine to top stitch the bias tape.  I blame Netflix. I had Deep Space 9 going and sat down comfortably to stitch and view.

I had wanted to make this double-breasted and use an asymmetrical closure. Couldn’t do it. My fabric was not wide enough. In fact my fabric was not wide enough to create a center front overlap.  I resorted to adding hair elastics for the closure. At least, I’ve got neat buttons.

This completes garment #3 in my Muley Brown Collection.

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