I’m exceedingly pleased to share that the first pair of panties from KS2200
when sewn and worn, were a 100% success. I was rather expecting this. After all, I have used KS2200 extensively in the past and then again from time to time whenever the urge to make panties struck me. Also, I carefully chose a fabric with at least 75% stretch and measured myself before choosing the pattern size corresponding to my own measurements. With the first perfect fitting panties completed, I moved onward into variations.
My intention is to be able to sew a pair of hi-cut panties from any knit fabric scraps remaining from my other sewing. I’ve learned, the hard way, that a pattern designed for 75% stretch isn’t going to fit when made from a knit fabric with 25% stretch. The panties above are made from the remnants of my Ottobre basic T-shirt. It is a rayon knit which, if stretched hard, contains about 50% stretch.
I started with the KS2200 pattern.
I think this pattern is still in print, but I didn’t find it on the ClubBMV site. I’m using View A, the pantie with a Hi-Cut Leg . Based on previous experiences with less than 75% stretch, I assumed that pattern alterations would be needed. I tried to logically compute how much larger the pattern would need to be. No luck. I mean I couldn’t just figure if a 50% knit needed a 25% larger pattern, or would it?. I did try to think through but finally opted for trial and error fitting procedures. I’m expecting that a few pairs of panties will be worn once and discarded.
I first added 3/8 in the waist and leg hole seam allowances. The pattern wants you to align the elastic with the waist and leg openings, zig-zag stitch, and then trim the excess fabric. I prefer to stitch the elastic to the wrong side; press forward onto the right side, stitch again and completely enclose any raw edges–no trimming needed. My initial 3/8″ will need to be adjusted depending upon the width of the elastic I use and any changes in sewing procedure.
In addition to the 3/8″ stitch and fold ease for the waistline and leg hole (is there a better or even official term for this opening?) …
I added 1″ in width to both the back and front pattern halves a total of 4″ added ease. I did not simply extend the side seams by 1″. I couldn’t image (the sudden jutting out of) an extra 2″ at the side would create a nice curve and adequate coverage. I split the pattern pieces about 1″ from the side seam and add 1/2″ evenly from top to bottom. I made a 2nd split more like a dart with 1/2″ added at the top (waistline) with nothing added at the bottom (3/8″ above the crotch). The 2nd split (dart) was made about 1/2″ in from the crotch side seam. I made those alterations on both the front and back pieces. So 1/2″ was added 4 times on the front and again on the back which added a total of 4″ for the waist and a varying amount but approximately 3″ across the but!
I decided that additional length was needed. I’ve had the experience of panties which fit comfortably across the hips, but were too short. During wear, they roll downwards forming an ugly lump underneath my jeans/trousers. I know that some designers consider the vertical stretch of knits to be negligible, but why then are the armscyes of T-shirts not only shallower but also routinely slightly shorter. The same thing applies to the length of a T-shirt from hem to armscyes. It is often just slightly shorter (maybe 1/4) than a blouse. I think that’s because the difference may not be in-your-face but it is noticeable when worn and the best designers will account for the effect of lengthwise stretch in knit fabrics. With that in mind, I added 1/2″ length to the front and back pieces. I split the tissue horizontally about 1″ above the point where the leg hole meets the torso, inserted tissue and measured an even 1/2″ above the first horizontal line before joining the piece. I was entirely unsure of this decision. It could have been right, but this was a learning experience i.e. it could have been entirely wrong.
I did not modify the crotch beyond adding 3/8″ for the fold-and-stitch elastic-attachment method along the leg hole seam allowance.
The result?? I can tell you that I did make good decisions, excepting the elastic. The pantie adequately covers me in the manner I wish to be covered. However, I used a 1″ elastic specified for lingerie applications. It does not have the same stretch as the plain old plus elastic used in the firtst pair of panties. I do wish I’d cut the elastic longer. Oh I can wear these, but I prefer just a little more ease in the elastic. My question, for which I don’t seem to be able to find an answer, is how to make allowances for the inherent elastic stretch. Is it going to be a matter of buy many yards and try it out?