Pantie Procedures: Sewing machine, Serger or Cover Stitch

There really should be lots of  ?????????????????? at the end of today’s title because I’m unsure and asking for advice.

Many years ago, when I first purchased and used KS2200,  I had only my beloved sewing machine, a  Bernina 1630,  with which to complete all my sewing.  Now my sewing room hosts:

Sewing Machine:                                              Husquvarna/Viking Designer Ruby

Embroidery Machine:                                  Janome MC9500

Serger/Cover Stitch:                                     Husquvarna/Viking S21….

……………….and therein lie some of my current  problems.

I want to use and have been seriously contemplating the capabilities of  my HV S21 cover and chain stitch machine.

For so many years if I wanted to sew panties, I stitched the crotch to the back and front burrito fashion and then inverted the pieces so that I had a beautiful crotch piece with all raw edges concealed. Then using a narrow zig-zag I attached the elastic to both legs—- on the inside which was then pressed, turned and stitched to the public side.  Once again, all raw edges were completely enclosed. Beautiful finish and no I don’t mind bragging.  I was only following the instructions of those much more experienced than myself. My next step would be to stitch one side seam; apply the waistband elastic and then sew the other side seam.  I’d finish by turning the waistband elastic to the public side and once again with a narrow zig-zag stitch, secure the waistband elastic to the public side.

When I acquired my serger, I would serge the crotch piece to the front and back in burrito style. Invert the crotch piece and attach the elastic to the leg holes with the sewing machine. Next, serge one side seam; apply waistband elastic using the sewing machine. Then serge the other side seam and finally stitch the waistband elastic in place. I was pretty much swiveling between the two machines.

This is still a good, workable procedure, but now I want to take advantage of my cover-stitch capabilities and I can’t decide how. ?????

My machine is a combination serger and cover/chain stitch.  If I’m using the serger capabilities and want to use the chain or cover stitch functions, I must

Move the needles

Disengage both the serger loopers and the serger finger

Remove the serger table and attach the cover stitch table

Guide the threads through the proper paths for chain, narrow or wide coverstitch

Set the stitch type

Set the differential

Set the stitch length

It takes longer to list these settings than it does to make the actual changes. But I also KNOW MYSELF.  I have been buying and replacing generic feet for Viking specific feet because while both work equally well, the Viking feet are much more quickly and easily swapped.  I’ve absolutely refused to do certain things because an alternative was faster. Such as the rolled hem on my first serger. It was faster to turn the hem up 1/8″ twice and stitch on my sewing machine, than to swap out the plate, foot and rethread the old serger. I know, without question, whatever I find quickest and easiest to do…. is what I W I L L DO.

So I’m looking at my procedure for sewing and panties and wondering,.  I don’t see myself

Serging the crotch to the front and back

Swapping to Cover Stitch Model

Move the needles

Disengage both the serger loopers and the serger finger

Remove the serger table and attach the cover stitch table

Guide the threads through the proper paths for chain, narrow or wide coverstitch

Set the stitch type

Set the differential

Set the stitch length

Cover Stitching the Leg holes

Swapping to Serger Mode

Move the needles

Disengage both the serger loopers and the serger finger

Remove the serger table and attach the cover stitch table

Guide the threads through the proper paths for chain, narrow or wide coverstitch

Set the stitch type

Set the differential

Set the stitch length

Serging one-side seam

Swapping to Cover Stitch Mode

Move the needles

Disengage both the serger loopers and the serger finger

Remove the serger table and attach the cover stitch table

Guide the threads through the proper paths for chain, narrow or wide coverstitch

Set the stitch type

Set the differential

Set the stitch length

Cover Stitching the waistband elastic

Swapping to Serger Mode

Move the needles

Disengage both the serger loopers and the serger finger

Remove the serger table and attach the cover stitch table

Guide the threads through the proper paths for chain, narrow or wide coverstitch

Set the stitch type

Set the differential

Set the stitch length

Serger the 2nd side seam

Uh nuh. Don’t see it.  I think I’d be spending all my time rethreading the machine instead of serging or cover stitching.

So I ask myself, is there another procedure?  I mean, surely those who preceded me faced the same issue and  came up with better solutions.  I’m wondering could I

Serge the crotch

Serge the side seams

Switch to Cover stitch

Move the needles

Disengage both the serger loopers and the serger finger

Remove the serger table and attach the cover stitch table

Guide the threads through the proper paths for chain, narrow or wide coverstitch

Set the stitch type

Set the differential

Set the stitch length

Cover stitch the leg holes

Cover stitch the waistline.

??? I know that would be cover stitching in the round ie circular.  Circular seems to be the mode for which cover stitching is best suited.  AND we’re talking about the leg holes and waistline opening for a mature, nearly plus sized woman. IOW these aren’t itty bitty holes that we are going to struggle to stitch within.   This seems possible to me.  This seems plausible to me.  So why haven’t I heard of others following this procedure. I mean, I’m late to the cover-stitching party. If this is such a great idea, why isn’t everyone else already serging panties in this order???

Please TALK TO ME.  I really need your input.

Advertisements

4 thoughts on “Pantie Procedures: Sewing machine, Serger or Cover Stitch

  1. Hi, I don’t often make panties, but when I do, I use my SM and my Serger. I sew elastic with SM zig zag. (I just feel I have more control with the SM) From your post, it sounds as tho you made your decision when you listed the time and steps to go through switching from one to another. I originally purchased a Babylock Evolve (Serger and CS) Even to to convert from serging to CS was simple (no plate changes, auto tension, etc) I, too found I wasn’t taking full advantage of its capabilities, so pretty much left it in CS and used my older serger that worked just fine. As time went on, I found a great deal on the Janome CoverPro 900 (two needle, not the three needle Janome CP 1000. Still have the Evolve, but generally, my go to CS is the J900. Only problem with using these 3 (SM, CS, S) at the same time is having enough spools of thread to match (if it matters). Good luck with whatever method(s) you determine best for you.

    1. I probably was tipping my hand. I know that I could produce similar results using a twin needle at the sewing machine but I don’t. Because I don’t like to stop change needles, fool with a second spool of thread or make a bobbin for use with the second needle yada yada yada. I think I’ll probably play with the CS for now but eventually either quit using CS or buy a separate CS machine.

  2. You seem to be thinking along the same lines as me these days. I’m currently practicing switching between cover-stitch mode and serger mode on my (relatively recently-acquired) Juki serger, on the theory that once I’m used to it, it’ll be no big deal to switch. I’ve been making tee-shirts to do this. I’m not there yet, but I whimper less than I used to do.

    I use the serger on underbritches, even to attach elastic. Currently, I sew them up using a 4-stitch overlock, with the same assembly mode as your original system. When it comes time to apply elastic, I change the serger stitch length to its longest setting, and sew it on. (I’m using picot-edged 3/8 inch plush elastic I got on sale some time ago. It’ll go bad before I use it up.) Once it’s all assembled, I use the multiple-stitch zig-zag on my sewing machine to turn the elastic so the picots show right-side out. I guess I could try the cover-stitch for the practice I need, but I notice that expensive ready-to-wear uses the zig-zag for finishing.

    Thanks for the idea–a stack of undies would give me plenty of cover-stitch practice, and if I don’t get it just right, it won’t be hanging out there for the world to see.

Comments are closed.