KS 2599 & Taking Corners with the Cover Stitch

This OOP Kwik Sew pattern #2599 is my all time favorite pattern.

It is the oldest and most used pattern in my stash. It is a dress which could also be cut to tunic or blouse length.  Direct your attention to View B at the shoulders, because this view really sold me on  the pattern.  Wearing this view, the average person suddenly has football shoulders.  My shoulders, on the other hand, appear more like  View A (normal).  View B has incorporated the Narrow Shoulder Adjustment that I would usually make to all tops so that the shoulder of the garment sits upon my shoulders.  I love this pattern because it seldom requires alterations no matter my personal size.  I love the fit of the garment. It has a shaped center back seam. When I was younger I would ignore the shaping and place the stitching line roughly on the fold thereby eliminating one more seam to be stitched. However as I get older I find that center back seam very instrumental for fitting the garment at my neck, bust, waist and hips. The side seams are also shaped. On occasion, I’ve taken advantage of this shaping and added more flare. For most versions though, I prefer the amount of flare drafted into the skirt. I find the columnar garment flattering to me.  One other thing, this pattern has a horizontal bust dart. If you’ve got more than a nippl%, a bust dart is essential for adding shape to the garment.  My favorite blouses/tops/dresses, the ones I think are most flattering, always have a bust dart.  (Even 2734, used last week, has a dart. The dart in 2734 was transferred to the empire edge.)

For today’s version, I made View B but scooped out the neck so it looks like view A.  My finished garment is about 2″ above my ankles–much safer for walking up and down stairs than the true maxi. I  did one other alteration.  Concerned over the expansion of my hips, I added 3/4″ to the side seams.  During the first try-on I removed the 3/4″ between armscye and waist.  I left the 3/4″ extra across the tummy and hips not so much because I needed ease as I wanted it. I wanted the extra ease. Truth of the matter is, I’m experiencing more days when my back brace is necessary. But I don’t want the brace to show.  I use a standard lumbar support purchased over the counter.  It is sufficient to alleviate any pain with perhaps the addition of a single Tylenol. (Ibuprofen causes me great intestinal pain.) So while I”m adapting patterns to accommodate the new shape of my bu!t, I’m also adapting the basics to skim over the bulk added by the support.

My fabric was an evil old rayon. Seriously, it’s been in my stash over 10 years.  It is a very-dark navy-blue with white, primitive designs.  Primitive designs have become classic  and occur in collection after collection year in and year out. I had 3.5 yards.  I think that’s one of the reasons it sat in my stash for so long.  I didn’t want to create a remnant but couldn’t find the “perfect” pattern which used up all 3.5 yards.  I also couldn’t decide between dress and blouse. Well now, I need summer dresses. So a dress it became. But not without a fight.  I pressed the fabric carefully (it had been preshrunk ages ago) and laid it out on my nice large cutting table.  It took forever to smooth the fabric out and place the pattern pieces upon the fabric.  The rayon wanted to slide and bunch.  I got it done – or thought I did.  I was cutting the front when I realized there was a bubble under the shoulder. I smoothed out the bubble, adjusted the fabric and finished cutting.  I took a look at the piece immediately and discovered, to my horror, that bust to shoulder was cut at a visible 45 degree angle from the skirt portion.  In addition to that one of the shoulders was longer than the other and the neckline was distorted.  First thought was how can I fix this?  Then I decided since I had the yardage, recutting would create the garment I wanted to make.  I spray starched the fabric and pressed it again; and AGAIN. When returned to the cutting table, it still wanted to slither and bunch.  I finally straightened enough to cut one piece at a time, after all I only needed to cut a front and a back.  Success! I was left with some big ol’ wonky pieces as well as the mis-cut and weird front. I kept them only until the dress was finished. Forgive me Fabric Goddess, but they are now on the way to the land fill. Some fabric just isn’t worth fighting with.

It does make an awesome dress.  Very floating and cool.

Front

OK you can’t see much with the garment on the dress form, but I couldn’t see much with the garment on me either.  The dark fabric even lightened to the max didn’t show drag lines or folds in the pics. I’m just hoping it fits nicely because it feels nice.

Back

The best thing about this dress, was working with the cover stitch.  I’m enamored with its top stitching capabilities. I used bias to finish the neckline and armscyes. I cover stitched those edges which makes a really neat finish both inside and out. The side seams are serged. The back vent was faced with bias and then covered stitched. I used a rectangular stitching pattern. Before I began stitching the dress, I practiced at my cover stitch machine.  One of my readers and a SG member, provided this reference for turning corners with a cover stitch machine. It is a page in the BabyLock Owners Manual but the technique should apply equally to all cover stitch machines. The BLCS instruction have you leaving the needle in the fabric just at the needle’s eye.   By trial and error, I found there were options which produced very different end results.  If  the left needle was down and the fabric turned, a thread would drag producing…

.

.a weird divot at one corner and odd stitching line on the other. I decided to try stitching up to the turning point, lifting both needles completely; lifting the presser foot,  turning the fabric and aligning the needles along the inner stitching.

This gave me  a consistent and even turn line.  It’s not the repeat that I want on my dress vent, but might be a possibility for something else.

Third time’s the charm. I decided to lift both needles completely, lift the presser foot, turn the fabric and align the needles along the outer stitching line.

This produces a beautiful, exciting diagonal which is mirrored on the other side of the vent.  Unfortunately, the beauty is completely lost in the dark fabric of the dress. But

I did it. I conquered turning corners at the cover stitch machine!!!

Yeah me. Thanks LindaT for this critical link.

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7 thoughts on “KS 2599 & Taking Corners with the Cover Stitch

  1. Great dress which looks like it will be a wonderful cool garment for summer. I will be back for more coverstitch tips now that I have invested in one myself. Look out Bev!

    1. Thanks! I’m learning to use my CS. Learned a long time ago that samples were they best way to find out how to do something or how some technique works with a particular fabric.

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