PP104 for the 2013 Winter 6PAC

I’m starting to work towards a Brown 6PAC for this winter.  Eventually, before winter’s end, I’ll need to sew 6PAC’s for all 3 of my basic colors (brown, blue and black).   At the end of last winter, I discarded many of my winter tops because they were pilled, faded badly or shrank. Funny sweaters pill badly but don’t fade so much.  They do however change size. Sweaters seem to prefer to grow a size or two longer and so I discarded sweaters that grew to knee-length. That left me with only a few blouses and tops put away for next year.  Funny, next year has suddenly appeared and I find that not only have I few tops, but also no bottoms. Ah yes, I discarded all the bottoms last June upon discovering that without gaining weight  my bottom had expanded and needed new sizing and shaping.  I need to sew winter clothes.   To tell the truth, I started with brown, because that is the color currently threaded on my serger.

I unpacked the winter clothes, pressed and hung in my closet. Then I did an evaluation and found,I do have a few items in this colorway from last year.  My plan quickly took shape:

Finished 1 top- Dark Chocolate Brown Slinky LH5208
1 top- brown pattern prints T-shirt using Pamela Pattern 105
1 pair pants no-wale corduroy in a milk chocolate-brown using the Eureka Pant
1 pair pants canvas using jean TJ906
Finished 1 Jacket- sueded twill (don’t remember the pattern used or the fiber but fully lined, tailored etc)
Finished 1 Jacket Camel wool OOP Vogue 9752 (classic knee-length coat)

I began with 3 completed items.  Today I can crow for having completed two more.

Finished 1 top- Dark Chocolate Brown Slinky LH5208
Finished 1 top- brown pattern prints T-shirt using Pamela Pattern 105
Finished 1 pair pants no-wale corduroy in a milk chocolate brown using the Eureka Pant
1 pair pants canvas using jean TJ906
Finished 1 Jacket- sueded twill (don’t remember the pattern used or the fiber but fully lined, tailored etc)
Finished 1 Jacket Camel wool OOP Vogue 9752 (classic knee-length coat)

Yes the no-wale corduroy pants and this gorgeous knit top made with Pamela’s Pattern 104.

This is a light weight rayon knit purchased from fabricmartfabrics.com just a few weeks ago.  No matter how many other knit top patterns I try, I always return to PP104 because of its wonderful fit.  The essence of waist and fitted armhole makes it far superior to the run of the mill T-shirt.  For this fabric I made full size patterns instead of using  the standard back-half, front-half and full sleeve.  I needed the full pattern for matching the pattern.

But the top ended up too big.  The shoulders are not just beyond my shoulder point (my preference) but about 1.5″ below the shoulder point resulting in a drop sleeve look.  This could be a fabric issue because I made a short-sleeve version earlier in the year without any problems. But again, I was using half patterns instead of full.  Fortunately, this isn’t noticeable when I’m fully dressed:

I should say, “Thankfully, this isn’t an issue when fully dressed”, because I used the instructions from “The Dressmaker handbook of Couture Sewing Techniques” to both stabilize shoulders and neckline and to insert the V-neckline binding.  My shoulders are not only reinforced and serged,  they are top stitched. If you know anything about me, you must know I hate to rip out seams.  I avoid the activity at all costs.  BTW I found the instructions for these two techniques (1-reinforcing and 2-V-neckline finish) to be excellent.  The author Lynda Maynard does suggest it is possible to serge finishing the neck-band before stitching to the garment.  I made a note to myself to delay serging until the installation is finished.  I think this was a fabric issue but I because I serged first, I couldn’t stretch the band as much as I wanted during the stitching. The band, therefore, didn’t lay as flat as I wanted across the back of the neck and rounding to the front.  Also, I substituted straight or bias (as appropriate) fusible tape for strips of interfacing.  This is another case when I’m just lazy.  I’d rather use the precut stuff then spending my time cutting 1/2″ strips of fusible interfacing.  I was pleased to be able to work with the ideas in this book  so soon and really pleased with the instructions.  Lynda’s methods are just slightly different from my own and I admit it, slightly better too. It is wonderful to be able to make minor changes to my procedure and produce noticeably better results.

Back to my 6PAC, I’m happy to announce

5 garments FINISHED and 1 TO GO

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