VEST: Black and Bright Blue

There’s no point, IMO, of doing all that work to change the color of the fabric, if I had no intention of using it.  I had already spent several hours embellishing.  I was in no mood to spend lots of more time creating the garment.

At first, I wanted to use NewLook 6273.

I loved the draping collar, and  shoulder princess that would  suggest a figure I didn’t have.  I an hour or so apply my standard alterations and then adding length and that was after multiple measurements and comparisons to be sure the garment would cover me. All done and the 4 pieces would not fit on my fabric. More pattern pieces means more opportunity for fit. However, it also means that you need more fabric or even two fabrics.  In addition, this is an uneven, large plaid. Both conditions ([1] uneven [2] plaid) adding to the fabric requirements.

I gave into the inevitable and  selected another pattern, my TNT 6538.

Although the princess lines were no longer an option, I still wanted the front drape.  I placed my pattern on the fabric; then placed the drape portion of 6273 on top.  I used 1/2″ masking tape to mark my cutting line; then slid the pattern up to meet the shoulder and again marked the cutting line with masking tape.  Then I just sliced with my rotary cutter.

Because this was a loosely woven boucle fabric, I fused 1/2″ bias tape to all the seam lines excepting the hem.  It was impossible to match the plaid across the shoulders. I fell back my standard solution and inserted grograin ribbon in the shoulder seam before I stitched the shoulders together

Then finished the armscyes with 1″ bias tape before serging the side seams.

The thing I spent the most time thinking about was finishing the front edge, hem and neck.  I almost finished the back neck with bias tape before serging the shoulders. In retrospect, that would have been a good idea.  I considered leaving all the exterior edges unfinished and stay sitched 1″ from all edges.  After a think or two, I decided that the front bias edges would not frey, but the neckline and hem probably would and would do so unevenly.  I turned the hem up 1-1/4″; serged the edge and using the knit hemming stitch attached hem to garment.  I used 1″ wide (1/2″ when folded) FOE in black to finish the back neckline.  I extended it down the front about 6″ and cut the FOE at an angle before applying Frey Check to the cut FOE edge. I did a nice job, one of my best, stitching the FOE.  This FOE had a tiny ditch 1 thread away from the edge.  I got out my stich-in-ditch foot and ran it down that tiny crevasse after adjusting needle position to stitch away from the edge. It was a case of stitch an inch; rearrange fabric, FOE and foot; then stitch another inch.  A little time consuming when compared to just zooming across the top of my granny panties. But the effort was well worth it.

I do love the resulting vest. The colors continue my Winter 2014 Black and Bright Blue 6PAC.  The drape is rearrangable.

I’m not sure this is done, done, all done.  I like it, but when I look at the pictures, I think the unadorned portion of the drape is lacking.  I may or may not do something about it.  Haven’t decided.