Woven Cami II

With the embroidery finished, I turned my attention to construction.

I folded the embroidered rectangle  in half, long ways. Replaced the pattern pieces and rotary cut my two main sections, the back and front.  I decided against bias tape. I didn’t want to make my own and feared the commercial tape would be too heavy for this fabric. I dug through the FOE box and found 2 cards, 1 yard each, in a closely matching purple.

I traced the bust dart with disappearing ink. Long time ago, Threads Magazine had a helpful hint that darts were easier to sew if all 3 lines were traced. The dart is folded on the center line and stitched on either leg.  I tried the method and was immediately hooked. No more rippling darts. No uneven legs.  It was actually faster to draw all three lines, fold and stitch than to make dots, try to line them up and fuss at the sewing machine.

Except for today.

 Today the lines disappeared before I could finish sewing the first dart:

Under the sewing machine light, the bust-dart stitching-line was invisible. What to do? Well turn on my Dream’s laser light and line it up with the pin at the point:

Continued stitching to the end. Sorry I just couldn’t help bragging about the laser light once again. When I purchased this machine I thought it would be wonderful for bias and Quilter’s joins. I thought it would be very helpful at those times but only occasionally in use. I’ve found myself using it over and over with nearly every garment. The laser light has been exactly the solution I needed in many tricky sewing situations.

I serged the shoulders together and then applied the FOE around the neckline.  I was going for taunt but not stretched and ended up with about 8″ left over. Good thing because the 1 yard on the other card was not enough for both armscyes. I didn’t have another FOE even close to this one. Couldn’t find a matching/coordinating lace or ribbon. Oh I’ve got purples, but not these purples. Yeach!  I joined the 8″ left over from the neckline. Divided the resulting strip in half and stretched each half to fit around one of the armscyes.  This could be an error. The armscyes can be ironed flat but they always resumed that slightly gathered look.  Worse, the finished under-garment is too high at the underarms

Since this is a test garment, and I already had a significant error, I decided to practice narrow roll hemming at the SM.  I stitched two lines 1/8″ apart at the edge of hem:

I thought you judged the width of the fold (and stitching lines that help the fabric fold)  by the curl of the foot which was about 1/8″. But as I was sewing:

I found it really wanted to roll 1/4″ twice for a finished total of 1/2″ instead of the planned 1/4″.

I had problems, always do with a roll hem done at the SM instead of serger. But, at least this time I completely roll hemmed my cami.  There are spots of darker purple on the face of the garment because

I Frey-Checked loose edges resulting form those problem times; and trimed them with my duck-bill scissors.

 

Lot of pictures for what you are already an expert at. I’m not. An expert. So I wanted to carefully document my procedure for the next time.  I’m hoping to improve each time I attempt a roll hem. That means making mistakes and learning from those mistakes.

The finished garment fits close to expected:

Eh, not wonderful but OK for a woven cami. I’m not really concerned except for the armscye depth.  I think I might want to add to the over all length longer or maybe tuck the cami into my pants because it shows under my upper layer:

Nasty ridge when I was hoping the Cami would smooth over my jean’s waistband making for a smoothly fitting tunic.

I don’t count this first cami a failure. I learned that 2 yards of FOE is not enough for a cami. (must up the ‘buy amount’ to 3 yards.) My version of the Walmart Cami has slightly less fullness through the waist and hip BUT it is enough.  I love that the cami fits smoothly over shoulder, upper bodice, and bust. No excess there to rumple under garments.

Despite it’s short comings, I’m  going to wear this cami. The tunic has some issues which I think are fabric related (my sweater knits looked fine after they were either lined or worn over a cami.)   I think my HSN Tunic is so pretty.  I’m disappointed that the cami did not ‘fix’ drag lines like it did for the sweater knits.  Oh well, I can always wear a vest.

 

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Sorry this second post got a little long.  I didn’t want to make you come back for a third post and just as importantly, I wanted my experience detailed in as few posts as possible.  When I go back and review garments for what I did and what I might want to change, I lose my own interest when it’s buried in several posts. Two I can handle. Three put me to sleep.

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3 thoughts on “Woven Cami II

  1. Ooh I love the laser light too! I have used it again and again. Please keep adding bits about how you use your Dream. I am still getting acquainted with mine so I appreciate the extra tips. I mark the centre of my darts too and also press the centre line in up to just before the point before I sew. I find this helps eliminate ripples and “twisting”.

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