I wanted to share the fact that the LH5202 cuff is versatile and can be changed several ways. I love the simple overlap as given in the pattern. But I also use it this way:
After interfacing sew the cuff flat to the flat sleeve. The sleeve is longer than the cuff so plan to ease the two together.
I serged with the sleeve next to the feed dogs.
I prefer to join my sleeve cap flat to the bodice and that’s what I did next. If you’re a die-hard insert-sleeves-in the round, you would do this next:
i.e. fold the sleeve and cuff so that the raw sides meet. Stitch, or in my case serge that long side/underarm seam.
Fold the cuff towards the right side. We’re wanting to meet the free cuff edge with the cuff edge that has already been serged to the sleeve.
It might be a little tight. In fact, I increased the cuff by 2″ before cutting it mostly because I prefer a little more ease at the cuff. Go ahead and put a few pins to hold the two edges together
Take it to the sewing machine, stitch only through the edges of the cuff. I start at one side of the underarm seam, stitch across up to the other side of the underarm seam. I leave between .5 to 1″ free, unsewn. Never had any wearing issues like this. Did have issues when I tried stitching completely around and over the seam. That just seems to make it lumpy and pull.
The finished cuff can be worn free, like I did for the finished LH5202 Fucia Flowers:
I’ve also inserted wide elastic inside the cuff. Also folded the cuff and secured with a button
The button doesn’t work but it does make a nice tight cuff
I’ve also sewn a buttonhole through the folded cuff. Then added a functional button. It’s an extra step I don’t always do (because it takes time and I’m always in a hurry). I like the functional button though because it’s easier when I press the newly laundered shirt.
I’m sure there are other variations of this cuff.