Dress KS 2599: Part Deux

After completing my pattern alterations, I turned my attention to fabric. Not until the   5th choice that I pulled, pressed and plinked,  did I discover a possible. Absolutely wanted a fabric without stretch.  Absolutely wanted a woven fabric.  My first fabric turned out to be directional and therefore not enough length on-hand.  (I would have known even if no one else had a clue.) Back into the stash it went. The next was a horizontal stripe. I didn’t have enough fabric to match stripes.  The 3rd… well on and on. I recommend when purging fabrics that you keep some uglies. As it was I had a hard time deciding to sacrifice a fabric to this test.   My fabric is a rayon-challis fractal-print in vibrant colors. It would have been a perfect 3rd layer blouse (coordinating several existing and even future garment pieces). Today it was a great fabric to test fit.  I didn’t have quite enough fabric to place both pattern pieces in the same direction.  I prefer that layout even when nap or grain is not believed to be a factor. When I hear Peggy Sagers confidently assure the world that grain doesn’t matter, I grit my teeth.  To me it’s like someone saying ‘that dog won’t bite’.  Sorry, if the dog has teeth, it can bite. I know because I’ve been bitten. However, this is a test;  I won’t be seeing the back; so I placed my tissue with hems at the cut crosswise grain and shoulders sharing the same horizontal plane, similar to this:

After cutting, I taped necklines and armscyes. Spent an hour trying to thread my serger.  Don’t know if it was me or the serger. But Sally (my HV S21) wouldn’t serge more than 3 inches before knotting.  Finally got her to serge finish edges using a 3 thread, wide stitch and size 11 needles. I serged the shoulders together. Then stitched the right shoulder 1/8″ deeper before changing to water-soluble thread for basting the side seams and center back.  I left the center back open from neck to 8″ below the neckline and again between the hem’s raw edge  and 13″ above.

I was leery of taking and examining the first pics. Amazed at the outcome.

Surprisingly, OK maybe it shouldn’t be a surprise, but the front armscyes gape, horribly.

However, there isn’t a mess of U’s along the side seam.  Only a single droop along the bust.


The garment is too long.  Sleeveless, half-inch above the floor is not flattering on me. I’m distinctly reminded of a Big M.A.C.K. truck –better get out of my way…..

But overall, this is not bad.  I’m never going to look like any of today’s popular starlets. I don’t even aspire to such appearances. So I can look at this and say , yes a high round neckline is never flattering for me;  and gaping front armscye is unattractive, but I know a solution and breaking up the Big M.A.C.K resemblance is possible.  !!!WAIT!!!  Other than the gaping front armscye, my biggest objections to this garment at its first try-on have nothing to do with fit.  It’s all about appearances; looks. Looks that I can change.

So I increased the shoulder slope 1/8″.  Finished the armscye using the same elastic trick as on Sleeveless Sloper Muslin #2.  Closed the back neck vent and created a front button placket before permanently stitching side seams, center back seam and hem. The finished garment is:


Not Bad.

Ok I had a bad hair day and pictures were hurried.  DH was insisting I appear for the evening meal immediately (he’s the chief cook at our house.) I should promise to retake pics but I hate to lie.

DH immediately pronounced my tank/dress  a hit. He loved the colors and shape and I wasn’t even wearing it. At 48 deg, it’s still too cool for me to be running around sleeveless.

Personally, I’m delighted that my test is wearable.  A  few, minor changes need to be copied back to the tissue.  More importantly, I fit this pattern with minimal effort and a single set of pictures. In the future, I can easily trace a new pattern; trace the sloper; and merge the two.  I don’t consider that ‘bad news’ at all. I’m very happy.



2 thoughts on “Dress KS 2599: Part Deux

  1. I for one am delighted you produced such a great looking dress using your sloper. That dress is certainly pretty and looks very good on. Good job!! Karendee

    1. Karen
      Im satisfied with it. More importantly with only the one test dress, I know I can adapt my sleeveless sloper in a few ways and I will be happy. DH loves this test and is looking forward to my wearing it this summer. Wishing you equal success


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