Sew and Sew 5803

Several years ago I bought this pattern:

At the time, it was a little ahead of style; or at least at the leading edge.  Now it’s one of several patterns I’m looking at and thinking I need to make this season or purge it.  To me that is the problem with trendy styles. They really do have short life spans and a pattern can become outdated before I even cut fabric.  I opted to make this now for that reason and also I wanted a break from heavy-duty fitting. A raglan sleeve is very forgiving.  I needed only to compare my sloper with the tissue pieces and ensure I had enough ease.  I traced the large at neckline and armscyes, Xlarge across the hip.

Fabric makes a difference.  I’m using a print described as “mixed cotton knit”.  I’m not sure what that means.  I loved the print which as touted as “Japonesque”.

I know a busy print can disguise a lot of ills, but I don’t see problems here.  The Xlarge fits my back side very nicely.  I did  stitch the armscyes 1/8″ deeper as the garment seemed a little wide both front and back in the upper bodice.  It was hard to tell because this fabric stretches vertically like slinky!  I immediately taped the neckline after cutting the fabric.  After the first fitting, I stabilized the armscyes with 3/8″ clear elastic.  Interestingly, the neckline was low until I added the 1.5″ neckband. Once I added the neckband the fabric stabilized and sat on the shoulders as I expected from the picture on front of the envelope.

Although the pattern calls for a turtle neck, I used a neckband.  I found that my turtle necks don’t get worn that much.  I feel too hot inside the house which is where I spend most of my time.  Unfortunately, I had just enough fabric to cut the neckband correctly but once.  I ruined that first cutting and had to cut a second neckband vertically on grain. The second neckband would not stretch enough.  I had a funky neckband. Neither stand up collar or neck hugging.  I contemplated using a solid ribbing of some sort.  Would you believe I did not have a single fabric which matched either of the blues in the fabric?    I was relieved to find that none of my whites matched the white of the fabric as  I don’t really like to wear white bindings.  Neckbands are immediately soiled by my makeup.   I did a Marcy Tilton, or maybe it is Kathryn?   on the neckband.  I stitched six 1/4-inch darts around the neckline.  That takes care of the  awkward neckband and looks kind of neat.  In retrospect, I wish I had changed to dark blue thread but the white does the job.

I also shortened the points 4″

They just seemed too long and pointy. More like after thoughts or someone trying to figure out how to make a front V hem.  I think you can see how out of proportion they were from this ‘before’ side picture:

I generally don’t wear tops that are down below the knee.  It’s not a good proportion for me.  I didn’t make the garment any shorter at the front. I folded the garment in half along center front and center back. Measured up 3.5″ from the point and lined my ruler with that point and the existing side hem. I slashed off an uneven wedge. I like the final look:

I also trimmed the front side of 1/2″ ease from hem to waist and an inch from the length of the sleeves.  I didn’t transfer all changes to the tissue.  I’m really concerned with how the fabric stretched.  I’m not sure if length issues area  fabric issue or a pattern issue.  To the tissue I trimmed 1/4″ from the armscyes and 1/2″ from the front side seam.

This is one of those patterns I’m not sure I should toss now or make a few more copies.  I really prefer a more upright raglan armscye.  I’m in the camp that says raglans make my shoulders narrow and my butt wide.   Fortunately, the busy print camouflages the raglan line very well. Also, this was easy to sew and fit. It was oops, need to fix this. Fix done. Looks good except, need to fix this. Fix that, looks good.  Just boom boom boom.  See what needs to be done. Do it. Done.  Not at all the [tweak tweak tweak and original issue strikes again] fitting scenario I’ve been fighting through.