All Things Peggy

Got my hands slapped so need to revise this page.  First off, this page is not approved by anyone and may disappear should objections be raised.

CURRENTBroadcasts

LynnH posts a summery and link to current broadcast at the following url. Most Links to previous broadcasts were provided by Lisanne and Sewingplums and were collected from the additional discussion on the same topic:

SG discussion thread; http://artisanssquare.com/sg/index.php?topic=129.0

2/27/2017 – Sewing Tutorial – The Bell Sleeve
Spring trend – based on SP#312 – Giorgio’s top.  Most of the video is her logic of the changes to be made.

2/20/2017 – Silhouette Patterns – Twelve Universal Fitting Facts!

Peggy emphasized that while we all have different bodies – the base fitting issues are the same.
1) Pick the size by circumference
2) Locate bust point
3) Waist to hip
4) Locate waist
5) Sway back adjustments
6) Rounded back adjustments
7) Armhole template
8 ) Neck edge template
9) Sleeves LCD
10) Crotch Depth
11) Crotch length
12) Flat rear end

If you understand these basic 12, you have the basics to achieving good fit on your body.

2/23/2017 – Let’s Sew – Cardigan Twist – Episode 22
Peggy used SP#915 – Hugo’s Favorite Cardigan as the base and changed it to a vest.

She is seeing lots of jackets that have 915 as the base.

Notions: 1 yard 2″ elastic and clasp
Fabric: used an embroidered woven, but could also be a knit.

Process:
Cut out Front, Back and collar (PS – I love how she stacked the fabric to cut all 4 collars at the same time)
Sew together the front and back
Try it on to determine where the elastic should go on the OUTSIDE
– about at the waist
– can use the elastic as 1:1 or pull it in slightly
Stitch the elastic to the vest along the top and bottom of the elastic
Turn under the armhole and stitch
Attach the collar
Attach the clasp (which she didn’t show)

February 16, 2017 – Let’s Sew – Distressed Denim – Episode 21 – Peggy demonstrates how to distress jeans at home.

She priced RTW at $200 and decided to make her own distressed denim leggings.  Recommends practicing on scraps before you start on the real thing.  Started by washing the fabric in Coke Cola. Cut out the leggings and decided where to place small cuts.  Used a sander (not one that does circles) to wear the area (for her – lower thigh and knee.)  You can also use bleach, but that will change the color of the denim.

Sew up the leggings and you can go back and sand some more or add additional cuts until you like the look.  Washing the jeans accelerates the wear look too.

2/13/2017 – Sewing Tutorial – Jacket Knowledge
Discussion on two key points based on experience.

1) The front of the jacket will not match the back of the jacket at the side seam.  The difference is that the front only has a seam allowance (for attaching the facing) while the back has the hem.  The difference is typically about 3/4″

2) Linings and sleeves – the lining is purposely shorter than the sleeve.  Formula – Sleeve minus 2 hems plus seam allowance.  To assemble – push the lining down the sleeve, pin at the cuff hem (to prevent twisting), reach between the lining and the jacket and pull the sleeve out, repin so that the right sides are together, stitch by machine and then pull the sleeve back out.

Peggy mentioned that she lets the jacket hang for several days before attaching the lining and she does not attach the lining to the back hem.  She leaves it loose at the back bottom hem.

2/9/2017 – Let’s Sew – Still Playing With Add Ons – Episode 20 – #115 as the base pattern.  Peggy added 3″ to the front & back, sleeve and collar unchanged.  She has you copy the front to a full pattern and then use the French curve to create the overlap.  The left overlaps the right side.  Peggy lists the order of sewing construction – hem front edge first, French darts, shoulder, neck, collar, sleeves, underarm sleeve and hemming of front/back and cuff.

For the Add-Ons – 5/16″ grommets (about 30) – placed every 2″ (including around the back).  She cuts an X and then clears out the tabs of the x for the grommet to fit.  Notice that the grommets do not go on the underlayer.

Feb 6 2017 – Silhouette Patterns – #915 Hugo’s Favorite Cardigan / February PoM! Peggy took 915 thru 4 iterations. 915 is based on the Sweater Set (195). #1) Winter version – leather (2 skins for the shawl collar) and fabric (2 yards for the rest) with no pattern changes. #2) Spring version – 2 way stretch knit, shortened 6″. #3) Vest – sewed the bottom portion of the shawl collar separately so it could be a tie (about 11″ from the bottom), then sewed the shawl collar the rest of the way (I felt she was ambiguous about this, but my attention was divided at that point), 2 yards of fabric. #4) Fringe version – front, back, front side pieces are all doubled. The shawl collar is unchanged. Each layer sewn separately and attached where needed. Then she fringed each hem area. The fringe is about 16-18″ long and has knots tied at the end. Each fringe is cut 3/8″ wide.  Peggy stated the fringed version takes 4 yards.

Feb 3 2017 Let’s Sew – A Little Add-on – Episode 19 – based on #315 – BCBG’s Top.  She used light weight fabric and cut/sewed the pattern per the guide sheet – with one exception – she added the slide to the front overlap and then stitched that overlap down (rather than using a zipper).

Feb 1 Sewing Tutorial – The Inauguration Dress with a Twist – She started with SP#1953-Lafayette’s Jacket. To get the collar effect – she added 4″ along the entire collar on the front and CB (this is a shawl collar pattern). Then she softened the top collar edge with a French Curve line and the bottom front edge – again with the French Curve. On the collar – she cut 3 slits and spread each 1″. She chose to make the jacket longer (original was closer to the waist) because she wanted to wear it with jeans.

At that point – she did a muslin in denim (similar weight to the planned red leather version. She strongly advocates making sure the pattern fits well before adding style changes.

After completing the denim muslin – she analyzed the additional changes (including not adding 4″ to the CB seam – she forgot that was the back seam. But instead she did another slash to add 1″. Ran thru the calculations for her red leather needs.

The final piece was walking thru the changes if you wanted a shorter version rather than Peggy’s longer version.

Here’s the previous Silhouette thread in the classic data base
http://artisanssquare.com/sg_classic/index.php/topic,25823.0.html

Peggy has posted her video about how to copy the jacket of a certain famous Ralph Lauren pale blue ensemble :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4DjYggaVb3k&t=158s

Peggy starts from a shawl collar pattern
makes a muslin to test the fall of the collar
and makes the jacket in red leather. . .

 

 

PREVIOUS Broadcasts

Tops – woven

600 classic blouse
pattern
http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/patterns/p_600.htm
Here’s a recent webcast about fitting and variants of the 600 blouse, February 8, 2016.
http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/media/livestreamchannel/replay_02_08_2016.htm
first sew-along, March 14 2011
http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/media/livestreamchannel/replay_03_14_2011.htm
second sew-along, February 22 2016
http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/media/livestreamchannel/replay_02_22_2016.htm
The YouTube she mentions about the collar is called ‘edge stitching’.  It’s here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rurtqLcduNU

Tops – knit

‘Wardrobe’ webcast (not a sew-along) covers many variations of the knits block base
195 sweater set
pattern
http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/patterns/p_195.htm
webcast, February 4, 2013.
http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/media/livestreamchannel/replay_02_04_2013.htm

215 Nicky’s top
pattern
http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/patterns/p_215.htm
sew-along, August 27 2016
http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/media/livestreamchannel/replay_08_27_2016.htm

Pants

3400 3-piece yoga pant
pattern
http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/patterns/p_3400.htm
sew-along, January 25 2016
http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/media/livestreamchannel/replay_01_25_2016.htm

3500 Carolyn’s cargo pant made as jean and 3300 Lana’s jean
Both patterns from the same block, 3500 has more styling seams.
3300 pattern
http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/patterns/p_3300.htm
3500 pattern
http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/patterns/p_3500.htm
sew-along, July 25 2015 (nearly 3 hours)
http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/media/livestreamchannel/replay_07_25_2015.htm

Jackets

1825 Zoanne’s cape / jacket
pattern
http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/patterns/p_1825.htm
sew-along, January 27 2015
http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/media/livestreamchannel/replay_01_12_2015.htm

1950 Max’s jacket
pattern
http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/patterns/p_1950.htm
sew-along Part 1, January 13 2014
http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/media/livestreamchannel/replay_01_13_2014.htm
sew-along part 2, January 27 2014
http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/media/livestreamchannel/replay_01_27_2014.htm

1500 Notched Lapel jacket
pattern
http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/patterns/p_1500.htm
fit, November 30 2015
http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/media/livestreamchannel/replay_11_30_2015.htm
sew-along, December 13 2015 (nearly 3 hours)
http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/media/livestreamchannel/replay_12_13_2015.htm

900 Carol’s jacket – ‘jeans’ jacket made in leather
pattern
http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/patterns/p_900.htm
sew-along, December 3 2016 (nearly 3 hours)
http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/media/livestreamchannel/replay_12_03_2016.htm

1925 Barbara’s trench coat
pattern
http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/patterns/p_1925.htm
Many adaptations of this pattern in this webcast, October 12, 2015.
http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/media/livestreamchannel/replay_10_12_2015.htm
intro to sew-along in part 1, November 7 2011
http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/media/livestreamchannel/replay_11_07_2011.htm
sew-along in part 2, November 21 2011
http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/media/livestreamchannel/replay_11_21_2011.htm