Seam Finishes


    1. Serged and pressed to one side.
    2. Very supple seam
    3. The way I prefer to stitch seams; just zoom and done at the serger and a whiff of steam .
    1. Serged, stitched and then pressed to one side.
    2. A little more firm than the serged-only seam. I only noticed the difference because I was looking for it.
    3. How I usually do seams because I tweak the fit.
    4. Note how the front starts too look a little wavy resulting from the pass at the sewing machine.
    1. Serged,pressed, stitched, pressed to one side and top stitched
    2. Still supple, but more firm than 1 or 2
    3. Hereinafter referred to FFS
    4. This is the famous Faux Felled Seam done at the serger. From the outside it looks like it might be felled. Had I made a 2nd line of stitching 1/16″ away from the well of the seam, no one would know it wasn’t flat felled.
    5. Note the bubbling on either side of the seam. This is all SM action. Probably could be eliminated by using an even-feed foot.  I change feet frequently because my HV Designer Ruby makes it easy as slipping on and off loafers (shoes). Setting up the even-feed is a bit of hassle and prevents me from using the other feet unless I go to the effort of removing the feet.  I’ve opted to settle for slightly wavy, bubbled seams.
    1. Taped on one side, FFS
    2. This seam still bends, but the top stitched portion is very firm.
    3. The portion not top stitched is firm but noticeably less than the top stitched portion.
    1. Taped on both sides, FFS
    2. Very firm but will still bend
    3. Again, the top stitched portion is more firm and resilient than the portion not top stitched.
    1. corded (with 6-strand embroidery floss) while serged, pressed and top stitched.
    2. This is just as firm as the seam that is taped on both sides. (With the portion not top stitched slightly less so.)
    3. Note that it really bubbles on either side of the portion not top stitched; much less so when top stitched.
    4. Quicker than fusing tape, but it does take some talent to get the cord in between the serger needles.
    5. I also corded a seam after it had been serged. I switched the A foot to my cording foot, selecting a long zig zag stitch and added cording. There is no difference between it and  the firmness of the not to-stitched seam . The top stitched portion is firmer but still flexes.  I’d rate it as good for an after thought. i.e. when I didn’t realize I needed a firm seam until all done, I could add this pretty easily. Not at all difficult as top stitching a leg seam after the garment is completely sewn.


2 thoughts on “Seam Finishes

  1. Hello,

    I wonder, if you could tell me whether knit-stay tape fused to one side of the edge of very fine woven fabric would effectively stop the edge from raveling or only help, not necessarily preventing 100% of the fraying.

    I would order the Extremely Fine Fusible Knit Stay Tape, but do not want to spend $17 on it only to learn that it does not work for this purpose. Unfortunately, the the stores in my area do not carry such one-sided tape for me to try and return, should it fail to do the job.Thank you for your assistance.

    Eve Keeffe

    1. eve

      I still havent taken it out of the package so not entirely sure. I’m expecting it to work like the woven straight or bias fusible tape both of which do stop nearly all fraying. Sorry I could not offer more definitive information.


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