Camuto’s Stretch Woven Pant (Silhouette Patterns 3218)

I did not intend to work on this pattern, well for ages.  I really was thinking of making the other new Silhouette Patterns blouse and wrap patterns and then after getting your input, I would compare my new Oct Bowl  to 5682 View B and make some more changes.  Might even make a new muslin — of 5682. But I am tired of fighting with 5682–3 muslins 30 fittings. I’ve done so much I can’t keep it straight.

And, I’m all fired up over the Fall SP patterns. I was especially excited during the Weekly Broadcast by the description of  the pant as …a slimmer pant drafted especially for stretch wovens finishing with a 12″ hem circumference…. Oh be still my beating heart. ” Exactly what I have been hunting for to wear on my plus sized body!  But I have to say I am tired of making pants muslins. Muslin after muslin. Fitting after fitting. Trying this. Trying that.  I am tired of this nonsense.  Wouldn’t my time be better spent making the 2 other new Silhouette Patterns?

Sigh, I was really drooling over the Camuto pant. So I said “OK. Make 1 muslin. Limit it to 6 fittings. It it isn’t near perfect at that point, trash it for a time when I don’t have other exciting patterns in hand. (I have all 4 of the Peggy’s new pattern, plus one from last year. Not to mention the POM’s in the file that I’m not interested in making.)

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And so it begins.  Read my full post here

Refining My Bowl

Not sure why, but suddenly, I was not longer shivering when not  covered by multiple layers. I decided this was the opportunity I had been waiting for; the occasion in which I could remove some of my clothing and check those areas of my crotch curve which had caused me doubts when I tried to use it.

Read my full post here

After Bath Coat/Robe

I don’t  wear the typical robe most people put on after bath (and before bed) and again the first few moments they hop out of bed on cold mornings. I don’t.  I’d rather wear my rhuana’s and caftans. Except for immediately after my shower. See, as I get older I am getting more sensitive to the cold and change in temperature. I am a morning showerer. When I finish my shower I keep the shower curtain closed. I reach into the small gap between shower curtain and shower wall; retrieve my towel and dry everything except the soles of my feet. While again reaching through the gap, I quickly cram my towel on the rack and retrieve the robe which I placed on the same rack before my shower. As I step out of shower, I am stepping into robe. Otherwise I shiver.  Even when summer temps are threatening triplet digits, I shiver upon departing the heat of the shower.

Perhaps you recall the spring/summer robe I made earlier this year?

It has been perfect until the last few weeks. I think its biggest disadvantage is its water-repellency IOW it has no absorption. Not a problem when temps were warm but now with the colder temps, the water accidentally not toweled off invokes the same shivering – although not to such a great degree- as not having dried off at all. I needed a new robe. Something that would be a little warmer- not as warm as my Berber Fleece robe– but especially something that would be water absorbent. I found the perfect fabric in my stash:

Rust and blue, double cloth woven from cotton. I bought it thinking warm, winter-shirt for DH. He hated it before I even got it out of the shipping box.  Not especially cheap, but not my style either (how many plaids have you seen me sew?), it sat in my stash for 3 years. It was caught in that conundrum where I didn’t want to use it but didn’t want to waste it in a muslin or give it away. I knew immediately it was the perfect spring/autumn robe. I knew it would be perfect for that time when temperatures have cooled but still hover well above 0F (Zero).

Initially I selected Butterick 5686 for my robe pattern.

I purchased it several years ago thinking it would be an interesting jacket pattern.  Never got around to using it. Still thought it would be interesting to use even with a plaid although they show unpatterned fabrics on the envelope.  Trouble started when I tried to add 16″ length (I wanted a long robe. My legs get cold too; and breezes sweep up under dress like garments.) I had a full 3 yards of 58″ wide fabric. I either had to sacrifice length or find a way to use a 2nd fabric.  It was then I first retrieved the fabric you see in the facing/lapel. I didn’t want to use it. First off, it looks more like fabric used in plush bear toys. I am not a plush bear. Or toy. However, none of my other fabrics matched or contrasted nicely with the blue and rust in the plaid.  I don’t have a lot of white and didn’t want to use it.  I launder robes very infrequently.  A white-collar/lapel/facing would look nasty long before I was read to put it in the laundry. I did not like black next to this fabric either.  I was pulling the hair out of my head trying to find something that I liked both with the plaid and on its own.  I settled for the toy fabric because the color perfectly complimented the plaid. It just glowed against the plaid and it does look better once interfaced and stitched in place.

Then I had a brain storm.  I wondered how much the shaping would be affected if I joined the pieces instead of cutting each separately and sewing them together?  Certainly the fabric required for matching would be considerably reduced. Would eliminating two 5/8″ seam allowances (total 2.5″ or 1.25″ each) be enough to eliminate the 2nd fabric? Yes! But after pinning the pieces together I discovered something that frankly sickened me.  I had assumed that having all those pieces there would be more hidden darts, shaping. No. The pieces all matched without any easing or 3D shape formation.  Pinned together, they formed large, perfectly-flat rectangles with the barest of angles at the shoulder.

Well that stopped me dead.  I know that very few shapeless/rectangular garments are also flattering to me. They have to be soft, very drapey fabrics like the thin sweater knits we’ve been seeing the last few years; or slinky. A really loosely woven fabric, while not as good as slinky, is more flattering in a rectangular garment than this double cloth will be.

This is a garment I wanted done. Yesterday. I didn’t want to engage in long planning or embellishment. I just wanted it ready for me in the morning but I don’t want to look like I’ went to Omar-the-Tent-Maker’s establishment to purchase it. I hunted in my pattern stash and pulled out an old, old pattern (copyright 2000) that I haven’t used since I moved here.  That would be 10+ years. McCall’s Easy Stitch N Save 2835

Why it has been neglected is a mystery.  I love this pattern and have used it for many 3rd layer garments. I combined it now with the extra length desired and the shape of the lapel from 5686. Placed it on the plaid with enough added for my desired length. I did line up the plaids somewhat

but not obsessively so. I did not cut single layer–which is what I do for DH’s shirts. I just said, “That’s good enough for the first 10 minutes after my shower”.   I folded up the sleeve 3″ and cut a contrast sleeve binding of 3.5″.  Possibly, I could have shortened the sleeve a little more because I did get it in the sink this morning.  One thing I did look at closely  was the shaping of the shoulder and the side seams. They are very shaped. Not straight lines at all. I didn’t want to sew darts in the neckline, didn’t want to fuss with matching along another long seam, the back, so I did not make my round back alteration.  Neither did I make my typical asymmetrical shoulder adjustment. Nonetheless, there are very few back or side drag lines.

Normally I add 1/2 to 1″ shoulder pads to coats but I haven’t done that either.

Not using this pattern in a long time didn’t slow me down in sewing. I had it done start to finish in about 4 hours.

I interfaced the lapel/facing in front. Being such a long big piece that did slow me down. Just a little. I hemmed using my machine blind stitch.  Seeing no point in it since  I threw away the belt I made for the spring/summer robe (above), I didn’t make a belt either. I planned for a button/buttonhole. Couldnt’ find a button I wanted to use. So for now my robe flops open in front … and it could be flopping for a while. In The last year or so, I’ve ended up buying my buttons from eBay and Etsy. But I hate to spend the time required to find what I like in the quantity I want.

Anyway, new After Bath Robe was finished in 4 hours. I think I spent most of my time fussy with choosing a pattern laying out the tissue.  Actually, I love projects like this.