TNT Parade

I was disappointed that Jalie 3245 Raglan top proved not  easily fit. On me. YMMV and certainly Jalie’s draft is not to be blamed.   I threw the traced pieces away and, undecided whether to keep or discard the originals, stuffed the pattern back in an envelope. Then I begin to think of what to sew next and my mind turned to the collection of TNT’s I have now developed.  There is

 The Tabula Rasa Tee(TRT)

with

Neckline package for  more variations.

The Tabula Rasa Jacket (TRJ)…

converted to the Tabula Rasa Blouse (TRB)…

and Tabula Rasa Vest (TRV) with  other variations possible.

Between the two patterns TRT and TRJ I have over 20 patterns/styles if I count the easy switch between swing or straight and vest or sleeveless blouse.  I’m getting a lot of mileage from these two patterns and have to say they were well worth my $$$.

From Connie Crawford I now have

B0456 which I can make about 3 variations more if I include adding collars, changing hems and shoulder lines.

B6299 which will  be overworked. It offers armscye princess seams in an  empire style with either pleated or tailored ‘skirt’. It is dress-length which I’ve already made blouse  length and am planning maxi length.  I’ve also converted it from 8 pieces to 4 pieces. It is such a basic pattern I expect to graft many sleeve and neckline variations.  Iit was drafted for wovens , I accidentally converted it for knits  — unlike the Fit For Art patterns for which I purchased separate knit (TRT) and woven (TRJ) drafts. (PS there is quite a bit of difference between the two drafts.) I’ve lost count of the possible versions for B6299.

For bottoms I count

Trudy Jansens 906 for which I already have multiple variations including a yoga and a DG2 Faux Jean; and it converts from woven to knit fabrics with a simple increase of seam allowances.

  2nd pants pattern is Jalie’s Eleanor although I seem to need to tweak it a bit. It is excellent for knits especially those slinky numbers.

My 3rd layers are all courtesy of Walmart. There aren’t pattern pictures because I simply measured and stitched by examining my original purchase.

The Knit Shrug

Long Shrug

Ruana

Caftan

I don’t include some of my recent successful sews as TNTs. For example Bog Coat and variations are not really TNT yet. I haven’t been able to eliminate the U’s along the side because I can’t figure out how to add an RBA. I’m not counting Burda #124 2009-03 because I replaced it with B6299. I’m not counting  my Silhouette Patterns.  I think I’ve fit them, but faill when trying to use a  good fabric . Also not sure I will continue working with the Silhouette Patterns  I own because I’ve discovered that I need lots of seams or darts. I’m unsure about my slopers. I keep tweaking them. Again I think they are fine. I think I’ ‘ve tweaked and fit my slopers but the next time I go to use them, I have to pinch at the bust or armscyes or add CF length or or…   Well, something’s not right. I think I need more seams and darts even in my slopers.

I need  places that can be changed at the pattern level. Yes I can pinch and dart wherever I’m having issues but when I transfer that to the tissue the problem reappears.  I can’t move the change or eliminate it. It seems as though  I am round where I am round. I am short where I am short. Tweaking the tissue doesn’t seem to work. Adjusting the fabric  in the exact spot needs to take place. For example, the plain old T. I can pinch a bust dart and eliminate the  drape lines in a test garment. I can move that dart to the hem on the pattern, as recommended by fitters and drafters alike. The next time I use the altered T pattern, the drape lines will return. Why? Because the fabric always wins. Because the fabric needs to be shortened or darted to mold to my curves where my curves are.

I’m really happy to have this range of TNT’s. However I’m a curious person and already considering working with other patterns.  I’m looking for patterns with  more seams, especially seams that bisect the armscye. So I’m looking for princess like seams and yokes. I may try a shoulder princess at least twice. Once to see if I  can fit and the second time to see if the changes work when transferred to the tissue. I remarked at the end of my raglan escapade that I might take that up again. I’ve already ordered a Silhouette pattern which has additional seams besides the raglan. Plan to try it at least twice as well. I searched through my patterns including Burda and Otto magazines and found at least 40 with armscye princess seams another  23 with yokes and an interesting 17 with odd seams that are a cross between armscye princess and a yoke.

And that’s not all.  I’ve been avoiding the stripes in my fabric collection .  I thought  were random some of my print fabrics where random. . But when spread out on my 2″ cutting board, the pattern  forms stripes. There are many that form diagonal and subtle stripes as well .   I’ve been avoiding these fabrics until I create TNT’s. I’m afraid  I will make wonky instead of neat or inspired stripes if I have to tweak and dart the fabric for fit.

No doubt these will keep me busy for a while.

I  have a huge pattern collection that I’m wondering if I’ll ever use again. I don’t expect to lose weight or stand straighter. It’s the age thing. I earned not only the wrinkles but all my figure variations through the life I’ve lived. Earned and owned. I’m wondering, especially since I could use the space, should I keep all those patterns and hope someday to get smarter and be able to use them or should I discard them now?

What would you do with patterns you’re pretty sure you’ll never use/use again?  Keep? Discard? Donate?